Hunter's Growing Guides
Not Just Your Ordinary Garden-Variety Nursery...
Hunter's Growing Guides
Growing Tomatoes
Before you get started, it is first important to understand the diffence between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes. As the term implies, inderminates have no pre-set limits and are restricted only by environmental conditions. Indeterminate tomatoes will continuously grow, flower and fruit throughout the season up to the first frost. These tomato plants can grow quite large and generally require support such as from a stake. Determinate varieties are limited as far as how big they get. However, don't be deceived; a determinate, depending on the variety, can grow to be just as large as any indeterminate. These tomato plants, usually compact and bushy, grow to a certain size before flowering and fruiting. Fruits usually ripen at about the same time and the plant dies. Certain tomatoes, such as the Roma, are semi-determinate, that is, they have characteristics of both indeterminate and determinate varieties. These tomatoes usually have a definite growth limit, but don't necessarily produce all their fruit at the same time, an advantage for those who don't want to be overwhelmed by large harvests.
Nothing beats the fresh taste of tomatoes grown in the home garden. Imagine the immense feeling of pride and reward from growing your tomatoes. The best part of it all is that you have complete control and know exactly what the tomatoes have been subjected to, a luxury that can't be had with supermarket tomatoes. Choose from dozens of exotic, vigorous and disease-resistant varieties, but do keep in mind your purpose (what you plan to use the tomatoes for) climate, and space. All tomatoes are sensitive to cold and will be damaged by prolonged exposure to temperatures below 40°F. and will freeze to death when temperatures reach freezing and below. There are certain varieties, such as Glacier that can tolerate light frosts. Tomatoes are not quite as picky as peppers when it comes to soil quality, but they are heavy feeders that require just as much sun and warmth.
It is recommended that you harden off your seedlings before transplanting especially if you live in a hot and dry area or a region with other extremes. Gradually expose tomato seedlings to more and more sun and wind each day for 1-2 weeks. For best results, try to transplant on a cloudy/cool day. The soil should be loosened to a depth of around 8-10" to promote healthy root systems and more vigorous plant. Drive a 4' stake 1' into the ground at each transplant site for indeteminates. Most determinate varieties hold up on their own, but staking is advised for plants that produce large fruits. Transplant the seedlings, burying them up to the first set of true leaves; tomatoes readily root along the stem. Water well.
As the plants grow, tie them to stake at 6"-9" intervals using soft plastic or yarn. Most tomatoes have fairly good drought tolerance but should be watered thoroughly 2-3 times per week, depending on the weather. Feed with an all-purpose plant food once a week. For indeterminates, pinch the terminal bud when plants reach 42"-48" to encourage bushy growth and better fruit production. Determinates rarely require pruning and generally should be left alone.
As your tomato plants grow, do watch out for pests. Certain beetles, tomato hornworms, cutworms and aphids can cause considerable damage to plants by boring into stems and fruits. Harmful insects tend to concentrate on tender growth such as the terminal bud. If an infestation occurs, spray plants with mild soap-water mixture. Large pests can be removed by hand. If plants are grown in greenhouses, the risk of infestation goes up considerably due to the favorable and sheltered environment.
There are a number of diseases that can attack tomato plants, but most are manageable when proper techniques are employed. For example, rotate your crops each year. It is generally not a good idea to grow tomatoes or potatoes in same area in consecutive years. Remove and destroy all plant debris at the end of season to prevent any disease from overwintering. If a plant is struck by a particularly devasting disease, such as Late Blight, immediately remove and destroy the plant. Below is a general list of common tomato diseases and their symptoms.
Early Blight: The fungus usually overwinters in plant debris and can be easily prevented by cleaning up all plant debris in the fall. Stressed plants and new transplants are generally the most vulnerable. Look for dark spots on the older leaves, surrounded by concentric rings. Leaves may yellow and fall off, leaving fruits exposed to the sun. Plant growth is often stunted and fruits may be smaller and of lower quality. This disease is rarely fatal. Can be controlled copper and sulfur sprays.
Late Blight: Probably the most devasting; this is the fungus that caused the Irish Potato Famine! The disease spreads very fast so early detection is imperative. Look for dark, wet-looking spots on stems and leaves. White mold may develop on these spots, especially in wet weather. The spots eventually dry and become flaky. Whole stems may blacken and fruits are likely to develop the same dark wet spots described above. Plants are usually killed within 2 weeks. This disease is most likely to occur when the weather turns cool and wet. In frost-free areas, the fungus is able to overwinter in potato plant debris. Removing plant debris and crop rotation are the most effective methods of prevention of Late Blight.
Gray Leaf Spot: This is strictly a foliage disease; only the leaves are affected. Dark gray spots appear on the leaves, starting with oldest leaves. The spots eventually dry and fall away. Then the affected leaves yellow and fall. As more and more leaves are lost, fruit production is brought to a screeching halt. Hot and humid conditions worsen the problems. Immediately remove and destroy affected plants and debris.
Verticillium Wilt: This is fungus that affects tomatoes as well as many vegetables. Generally, what you'll see is unexplained wilting during the day, even if the plants are well-watered. Plants recover at night only to wilt again the next day. Leaves may yellow, dry up and fall off. Discoloring of the stems is common. The fungus inhibits the plant's ability to take up water and nutrients and vicious cycle of wilting and recovering is repeated until the plant is killed. The fungus can be persistent, overwintering for several or more years in the soil and can managed by removing all affected plants and debris, choosing disease-resistant varieties and rotating crops.
Harvest tomatoes when fully ripe for best flavor. By the end of the season, determinate tomatoes won't be looking too good, but indeterminates will keep producing right up to the first frost. Prior to the frost, harvest all tomatoes regardless of what stage of development they are in. "Frosted" tomatoes CANNOT be eaten! Green tomatoes can be placed on a sunny window-sill to ripen. Indeterminate tomatoes are perennials, but are difficult to overwinter. It is best to start over with new plants the next year. Dead plants should be removed and disposed of within several days of the first frost to prevent future outbreaks of disease.
Updated: 7/27/08 @ 7:25 PM PST
Growing Peppers:
Peppers fall under the genus Capsicum and are a member of the solanaceae (nightshade) family. The genus Capsicum contains many species: C. annuum, C. frutescens, C. chinese, C. pubescens C. baccatum are the most common, but there are many overs, most of which were only recently discovered. Chili peppers produce an oil known as Capsaicin that gives them their heat. All peppers contain Capsaicin, including bell peppers, but sometimes the concentration is so low that the heat is difficult to detect.
There is almost nothing more rewarding than raising your own peppers. Just like tomatoes, there are many varieties to choose from, but all are sensitive to cold. The method of growing peppers is simlar to that of tomatoes, but peppers are a bit more picky. They generally require better soil quality to thrive.
Once all danger of frost has passed, seedlings may be transplanted outside. Hardening off is optional, but is generally a good idea. Loosen the soil to depth of around 10" and plant seedlings about 18" apart; more space will allow plants to grow bigger. Staking is not usually required due to the bushy growth habit of most peppers, however, staking is important for pepper plants that produce large fruits such as bell peppers. Feed with an all-purpose plant food once per week. Water thoroughly every 2-3 days (depending on the weather) to encourage the development of deep, healthy root systems. Pests and diseases are rarely problem, but watch out for aphids which can be controlled with ladybugs. Spray with a mild-soap solution for large infestations. Plant Marigolds near peppers to control Root-Knot Nematodes. Crop rotation and well-drained soil will prevent disease from occuring.
Peppers may be harvested green or when fully ripe. Peppers must be harvested fully ripe for maximum heat and/or flavor. Some varieties acutally taste better when picked green. Peppers are perennials and unlike tomatoes, they are relatively easy to overwinter. C. Annuum generally does not overwinter very well, but you may find that it worth the effort to save members of C. Chinese and C. Baccatum which are probably the easiest peppers to overwinter. Prior to the first frost, dig plants up and prune the plant as well as the roots. Pot up in 2-5 gallon pots. Use 50% garden soil and 50% potting soil. Bring the plants indoors and place them in warm, sunny location. Lack of light and warmth will cause pepper plants to lose their leaves and go into a state of semi-dormancy. With proper care, a pepper plant will do quite well indoors. Growth and fruit production will be slower, however. Watch out for pests, especially aphids and whitefly, which can even more of a problem indoors. Successful overwintering means that you will have a great headstart next year. If you choose not to overwinter, be sure to harvest all fruits before the frost. "Frosted" peppers cannot be eaten!
Growing Herbs:
Basil: Basil does best in a sunny location with fertile, well-drained soil. For best results, transplant on a cool and/or cloudy day. Loosen soil to depth of about 6" and plant 10" apart. Keep soil moderately moist and feed with an all-purpose plant food once a week. Basil is best used fresh and should be added at the end of cooking. Harvest tender, new leaves of whole branches, but don't cut plants back by more than 33% at a time. Cut flowering stalks to keep plants productive all season long. Although fresh basil is preferred, leaves may dried and/or frozen for long-term storage. Harvest all leaves before the first frost. "Frosted" plants cannot be used!
Chamomile: Chamomile is a popular herb for making tea. Transplant in the Spring once the danger of frost has passed. For best results, transplant on a cool and/or cloudy day. Loosen soil to a depth of around 6" and plant 6" to create a dense "carpet." Keep soil moderately moist and feed with an all-purpose plant food twice a month. Blooms may be harvested and dried for long-term storage. Cut old blooms and prune the plant occasionally to encourage continuous flowering. Remove plants after the first hard frost.
Mustard: Mustard is a hardy, cool-weather crop and, like lettuce, doesn't tolerate heat and should be planted in early spring. Mustard does best if slightly shaded and grown in fertile, well-drained soil. Work a little compost or manure into the soil, if desired. For best results, transplant on a cool and/or cloudy day. Loosen soil to a depth of about 6" and plant 8" apart. Harvest tender leaves and stems and use in fresh salads. The seeds may be ground into a condiment. Mustard goes to seed once the weather turns hot. When plants start bolting (flowering) harvest all leaves and remove the plants. Replant in the fall when the weather turns cool again.
Parsley: Parsley is a hardy biennial herb that does best in full sun although it can tolerate a bit of shade. Parsley prefers fertile, well-drained soil. For best results, transplant on a cool and/or cloudy day. Loosen soil to depth of about 6" and plant 8" apart. Keep soil moderately moist and feed with an all-purpose plant food once a week. Harvest parsley by cutting the outer branches at the base to encourage continuous vigorous growth. In the second year, cut flowering stalks to extend the growing season.
Growing Grapes:
Grapes are by far one of the most rewarding crops for the typical home gardener. Many people think of growing grapes (or any other perennial fruit) to be quite difficult. Certain grape varieties are challenging, but most are easy and mostly self-sustaining once established. Currently, the only variety I offer is the Saturn. The Saturn is an excellent, dark-purple sweet grape. The skin is a bit tough, making this variety suitable for juicing and making jam. When you first get your new grape cutting, I highly reccommend potting it up in a 12" pot with a rich potting soil. The new grapevine should kept moist and fed regularly with an all-purpose plant food and placed in a sunny location. For the most part, allow the grapevine to grow however it wants; snip any flower/fruit clusters. In winter, when the grapevine is dormant, choose the strongest shoot (the previous season's growth) and cut it back so that it has 7-8 buds. Remove all other shoots. Fruit is produced only on one-year old growth, called canes. In the second growing season, the young grapevine may transplanted to a permanent location that receive full sun. The soil should be prepared such that it is loose and has good drainage. Transplant in late winter when the grapevine is still dormant to prevent transplant shock. Once the transplant is complete, add just enough water to moisten the soil and wait for new growth. Maintain the plant as described for the first year. Allow each shoot to produce no more than 1-2 clusters per shoot (about 7-10 clusters total) to prevent overbearing. Taste the fruits daily as they ripen to determine when to harvest. Be aware that fruits generally become tastier as the grapevine matures and that time to maturity varies from year to year. In the winter, select the two strongest shoots (arms), prefarably going in opposite directions and cut them back to 7-8 buds each. Remove all other shoots. Maintain the plant as described above for the second season. Fruit production generally doubles or triples in the second fruiting year. Again, each shoot should have a maximum of two fruit clusters each. The third winter is when things start to get interesting. The easiest and often preferred method of pruning is called spur pruning. Each shoot will be cut back to just one or two buds each and should be spaced 4-6" apart. Remove small or scraggly-looking shoots. Maintain the grapevine as you did in previous years. Follow the general rule of no more than 2-3 clusters per shoot and you can expect fruit production to at least double. Remove suckers and shoots that form at the cordon, the junction between the spur and arm. Use vigor and fruit production to determine how many shoots you want for next year. If fruit production is low or fruit quality is low, limit the number of shoots. If fruit production is acceptable, simply follow the procedure for spur pruning, cutting each shoot back to just 2 or 3 buds each. An alternative pruning method is called cane pruning. In the third winter, select two shoots near the trunk and cut them back to 1 or 2 buds each; these are your renewal spurs. Select two strong shoots, prefarably near the renewal spurs and cut them back to 7-8 buds each. Remove all other shoots. When it comes time to prune again in the next winter, select one shoot on each renewal spur and cut them back to just one bud each and remove all other shoots. The renewal spurs will produce the canes for next year's fruit. The basic idea behind cane pruning is to leave two canes to produce fruit next year; cut these back to 10-25 buds each and to leave one bud on each renewal spur to produce the following year's fruit. Experiment by trying both of these pruning methods to determine which is best. With proper care, you can expect your grapevine to productive for 50 or more years (there are documented cases of 100+ year old grapevines that still produce fruit.)
Updated: 10/23/09 @ 1:57 PM PST
